Ratatouille
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39 posts
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- Joanbunting
- Posts: 1879
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:30 pm
- Location: Provence
Re: Ratatouille
I should start off by saying that there are as many recipes/methods for cooking ratatouille as there are cooks in Provence.
For me , and the old lady who taught me 40 odd years ago, it would never be oven cooked - not many households had ovens. All however start with onions. garlic and olive oil. The other ingredients are then added according to their cooking time. The absolute perfectionists cook each one separately. I go sliced green and red peppers - not skinned. Then diced aubergines with a tbsp of ground coriander seeds. When they are beginning to absorb the juices the sliced courgettes and last of all quartered tomatoes. No herbs but of course salt, pepper and really good olive oil.
An eye has to be kept because the last thing you want is a soggy mess. each veg should be identifiable. It really isn't rocket science. perfect example of if it ain't broke don't fix it.
It is a peasant dish, made only in summer and is just to be enjoyed hot or cold with or without anything else. A fried egg is lovely and even better a shoulder of lamb. For veggies a gilled goats cheese works too.
As I say No-one is an expert but everyone knows what they like and how they like to do it.
For me , and the old lady who taught me 40 odd years ago, it would never be oven cooked - not many households had ovens. All however start with onions. garlic and olive oil. The other ingredients are then added according to their cooking time. The absolute perfectionists cook each one separately. I go sliced green and red peppers - not skinned. Then diced aubergines with a tbsp of ground coriander seeds. When they are beginning to absorb the juices the sliced courgettes and last of all quartered tomatoes. No herbs but of course salt, pepper and really good olive oil.
An eye has to be kept because the last thing you want is a soggy mess. each veg should be identifiable. It really isn't rocket science. perfect example of if it ain't broke don't fix it.
It is a peasant dish, made only in summer and is just to be enjoyed hot or cold with or without anything else. A fried egg is lovely and even better a shoulder of lamb. For veggies a gilled goats cheese works too.
As I say No-one is an expert but everyone knows what they like and how they like to do it.
Cooking for those you care about is the most profound expression of love - Anne-Sophie Pic
- karadekoolaid
- Posts: 2581
- Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:40 pm
Re: Ratatouille
I´m very much in Joan´s camp. A peasant dish, which tastes fresh, vibrant and where the individual flavour of each vegetable is evident. No faff, no fuss, and definitely no oven.
I think on this occasion, Felicity has called a "spade" a " Single-handled -wood -and -metal-excavating-instrument-fro-the-timely-removal-of-earth".
In other words - far too complicated.
When I make it,(and I´m no expert, nor have I been to Provence in the past 50 years!) I either follow Joan´s indications or I cook each vegetable separately, then bring them all together at the end . Everything starts raw and simply gets fried or sautéed in olive oil, with s&p. I do sometimes add rosemary, or oregano, or basil - that´s about it.
I think on this occasion, Felicity has called a "spade" a " Single-handled -wood -and -metal-excavating-instrument-fro-the-timely-removal-of-earth".
In other words - far too complicated.
When I make it,(and I´m no expert, nor have I been to Provence in the past 50 years!) I either follow Joan´s indications or I cook each vegetable separately, then bring them all together at the end . Everything starts raw and simply gets fried or sautéed in olive oil, with s&p. I do sometimes add rosemary, or oregano, or basil - that´s about it.
- Lusciouslush
- Posts: 1735
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 10:35 am
Re: Ratatouille
karadekoolaid wrote:cook each vegetable separately, then bring them all together at the end . Everything starts raw and simply gets fried or sautéed in olive oil, with s&p.
That's how I have always done it with the inclusion of herb(s) of choice - hate the all-in-one mush that can happen otherwise.
- Badger's Mate
- Posts: 1489
- Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:07 pm
Re: Ratatouille
Coincidentally I will be doing one this week. I've always followed the blessed Delia, which is broadly as above, although she puts the (salted) aubergines & courgettes in at the same time and adds basil.
The more I think about it, my very first attempts were probably following a recipe from a book by Good Housekeeping or Marguerite Patten
The more I think about it, my very first attempts were probably following a recipe from a book by Good Housekeeping or Marguerite Patten
- Joanbunting
- Posts: 1879
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:30 pm
- Location: Provence
Re: Ratatouille
It is a strange thing but fresh herbs are never included here. Adding fresh basil to a cooked dish is near useless. It just doesn't keep it's flavour once cooked.
Cooking for those you care about is the most profound expression of love - Anne-Sophie Pic
- cherrytree
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:48 pm
Re: Ratatouille
I’m just reading Felicity’s book about her bike ride around France. (Pity she only visited the predictable culinary hotspots- a visit through the more remote areas such as the Auvergne would have been nice).
Anyway she describes in detail ratatouille, the similar one in this week’s Guardian. I wish I was more of a fan .
And no Felicity, Sete is nowhere near Marseille.
Anyway she describes in detail ratatouille, the similar one in this week’s Guardian. I wish I was more of a fan .
And no Felicity, Sete is nowhere near Marseille.
- Joanbunting
- Posts: 1879
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:30 pm
- Location: Provence
Re: Ratatouille
In next month's Saveurs the vegetarian dish is ratatouille cobbler ! the ratatouille contained sprigs of freh thyme
Cooking for those you care about is the most profound expression of love - Anne-Sophie Pic
- WWordsworth
- Posts: 2211
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:26 pm
- Location: North West Leicestershire
Re: Ratatouille
Maybe ratatouille cobbler should be added to the Crimes Against Food thread.
- Stokey Sue
- Posts: 8629
- Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:02 pm
- Location: Stoke Newington, London
Re: Ratatouille
I think you’re a bit harsh on Felicity cherrytree, the point of the book was exactly that she cycled from one highlight to another
I wouldn’t make the ratatouille in the book, as it uses canned tomatoes, which I find too wet
Contrariwise, the current recipe uses only 1 tbs of olive oil, which doesn’t really seem enough
My usual version is based on that given by Elizabeth David in French Provincial Cooking, which she calls Ratatouille Niçoise
The ingredients are red peppers
coriander seeds
aubergines(disgorged with salt)
onions
tomatoes (peeled)
courgettes
olive oil (Sakkarin’s favourite unit, 2x after dinner coffee cups, so about 150ml)
parsley or basil
You soften the onions; add the garlic, peppers, aubergines & courgettes and cook gently; add the coriander seeds and tomatoes and keep going; finish with a little herb
For some reason I started leaving the coriander out at some point, I supposed someone didn’t like it as I’d always have it around
I tend to bake though these days, so much easier when making a small amount which catches easily
<whispers> canned ratatouille is nothing like the real thing but fine in place of baked beans with jacket potato and cheese or as the base for instant shakshuka
I wouldn’t make the ratatouille in the book, as it uses canned tomatoes, which I find too wet
Contrariwise, the current recipe uses only 1 tbs of olive oil, which doesn’t really seem enough
My usual version is based on that given by Elizabeth David in French Provincial Cooking, which she calls Ratatouille Niçoise
The ingredients are red peppers
coriander seeds
aubergines(disgorged with salt)
onions
tomatoes (peeled)
courgettes
olive oil (Sakkarin’s favourite unit, 2x after dinner coffee cups, so about 150ml)
parsley or basil
You soften the onions; add the garlic, peppers, aubergines & courgettes and cook gently; add the coriander seeds and tomatoes and keep going; finish with a little herb
For some reason I started leaving the coriander out at some point, I supposed someone didn’t like it as I’d always have it around
I tend to bake though these days, so much easier when making a small amount which catches easily
<whispers> canned ratatouille is nothing like the real thing but fine in place of baked beans with jacket potato and cheese or as the base for instant shakshuka
- Joanbunting
- Posts: 1879
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:30 pm
- Location: Provence
Re: Ratatouille
Last week, as an experiment, I made a yellow ratatouille. This was simply because in the garden I had yellow courgettes and peppers, the neighbour had white aubergines and then I got some yellow pineapple tomatoes.
Because the tomatoes and peppers taste distinctly different, the end result was delicious byt M said that it didn't look like ratatouille and it didn't taste like it so wondered if I could call it ratatouille? I'll do it again when i am serving something that would look good with a sunny accompaniment.
Because the tomatoes and peppers taste distinctly different, the end result was delicious byt M said that it didn't look like ratatouille and it didn't taste like it so wondered if I could call it ratatouille? I'll do it again when i am serving something that would look good with a sunny accompaniment.
Cooking for those you care about is the most profound expression of love - Anne-Sophie Pic
Re: Ratatouille
Sounds very tasty and would be very good for one layer in tricolour veggie lasagnes. We'll ignore the name outrages and your dislike of pasta
Could you use any of those with your veal dish as yellow contrasts very well with brown?
Could you use any of those with your veal dish as yellow contrasts very well with brown?
- Joanbunting
- Posts: 1879
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:30 pm
- Location: Provence
Re: Ratatouille
It wouldn't go either in colour or texture. Marengo is tomato and carrot rich so not at all brown. Don't worry I'll find a match one day.
Of course if I or anyone else wanted to make a layered dish I could make red, yellow and green ratatouille from the vegetable available in the garden and market
Of course if I or anyone else wanted to make a layered dish I could make red, yellow and green ratatouille from the vegetable available in the garden and market
Cooking for those you care about is the most profound expression of love - Anne-Sophie Pic
- cherrytree
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:48 pm
Re: Ratatouille
I’m enjoying the book hugely, Stokey Sue and I can’t tell you how much I love Felicity’s recipes and analyses. I use her recipes constantly as they work so well and even though I probably won’t be doing the ratatouille Im sure it will be very good indeed.
No, my gripe is the choice of places. I’m in a part of France that gets overlooked for most things mostly by the French and certainly by British travel and cookery writers. The map in the lovely book shows this clearly. I am just having my customary grumble that’s all.
No, my gripe is the choice of places. I’m in a part of France that gets overlooked for most things mostly by the French and certainly by British travel and cookery writers. The map in the lovely book shows this clearly. I am just having my customary grumble that’s all.
- Stokey Sue
- Posts: 8629
- Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:02 pm
- Location: Stoke Newington, London
Re: Ratatouille
Fair enough cherrytree
She’s looking for a way in to the next book perhaps “off piste” could be a theme
I’ve heard her speak several times and met her once, she seems to be just as you’d expect from the book, though given to surprisingly high heels!
She’s looking for a way in to the next book perhaps “off piste” could be a theme
I’ve heard her speak several times and met her once, she seems to be just as you’d expect from the book, though given to surprisingly high heels!
- cherrytree
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:48 pm
Re: Ratatouille
Maybe I should get in touch with her via the Guardian and suggest some places and foodie delights along the way!
Re: Ratatouille
Deep into ratatouille here too, with the garden producing really well. I either bake mine if I am doing a batch, but yesterday I did just a panful to go with our BBQ'd chicken. So all veg. chopped & put in the pan with a squirt of olive oil, a sprig of bay & seasoning, & leave to cook gently under a lid. Most of mine is yellow, too, Joan, with long & round yellow courgettes & golden tomatoes. Shame about not having white aubergines, but something to look out for next summer.
- Stokey Sue
- Posts: 8629
- Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:02 pm
- Location: Stoke Newington, London
Re: Ratatouille
It’s probably quite nice, but I gave up using Aromat (and Kub, and Vegeta) ca 1980, bit of a blunt instrument
But I’m not convinced it’s a Provençal ratatouille, it’s the use of tomato sauce that grates.
Having said that, like so many of these dishes there are variants all around the Med (cf shakshuka) and throughout the Balkans, where it is known as Güveç (pronounced djoo-vets and spelled any darn way you like). The Turkish version is often baked, but in my very limited experience it’s cooked on the hob elsewhere and more of a stew with a lot of sauce. Lebanese and Egyptian versions too.
I found Wiki when checking the spelling, quite interesting
[url]https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Güveç[/url]
But I’m not convinced it’s a Provençal ratatouille, it’s the use of tomato sauce that grates.
Having said that, like so many of these dishes there are variants all around the Med (cf shakshuka) and throughout the Balkans, where it is known as Güveç (pronounced djoo-vets and spelled any darn way you like). The Turkish version is often baked, but in my very limited experience it’s cooked on the hob elsewhere and more of a stew with a lot of sauce. Lebanese and Egyptian versions too.
I found Wiki when checking the spelling, quite interesting
[url]https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Güveç[/url]
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