list of lost and forgotten sauces

[wargarden Profile]

I just reading several old cook books and the number of sauce that i have never heard of seemed go on.
Seems in old days sauce was need on ever dish. All sauces below are pre 1860.

here is list of a several of them:
Sauce Royale
Madeira wine sauce
gardinere sauce
lobster sauce(not a Chinese sauce).
perageaux sauce

feel free to add to the list and add link how to make them.

[Otterspocket Profile]

Cumberland Sauce seems to have gone out of fashion on menus

[Joanbunting Profile]

I think most of these are classics from French Cuisine, incorrectly spelt or possibly anglicised. So I suggest;

Sauce Royale - basically an egg and cream emulsion.
Madeira wine sauce - Sauce madere, roux based sauce made using reduced veal stock and flavoured with Madeira wine. Most often served with braised ox tongue. Still frequently on French menus
gardinere sauce - I thought this might be Jardiniere sauce but on checking it is an American recip
lobster saucenot a Chinese sauce).- - Lobster bisque made with the heads and shells of lobsters with aromatics, tomatoes white wine and brandy. Classic French and still often seen
perageaux sauce - Sauce Perigueux ? Classic made with fresh truffles, a reduction of white wine and another roux based one.
Hope this is not too much information

There are loads of variations on the classicvinaigrette sauces especially those including chopped eggs. One I make a lot, is Sauce Gribiche but don't often see on menus. It is lovely with cold meats including pressed tongue. Made but useing hard boiled egg yolk with mustrad, chopped shallots, gherkins, capers and parsley whisk i wine viengar then add the chopped egg whites

[scullion Profile]

'not lost but gone before'.
is anything lost if it's been written down?

SAWSE NOYRE FOR MALARD. XX.VII. I.

Take brede and blode iboiled. and grynde it and drawe it thurgh a cloth with Vynegur, do þerto powdour of gyngur ad of peper. & þe grece of the Maulard. salt it. boile it wel and serue it forth.

if you're interested in old stuff try looking at the very old stuff, too.
this is from 'the forme of cury' you won't find many older cookbooks and you can read/download it online.

[Sakkarin Profile]

If you want to study sauces Wargarden, most Western sauces are based on the classic French sauces, for which the three must-have references in my view are:

Le Repertoire de la Cuisine
Larousse Gastronomique
Anything by Escoffier

You'll probably find that many on this board have at least one of those reference works. I only have the first two.

Larousse is a big fat encyclopoedia, and has 250 sauces, Repertoire de la Cuisine is a very slim book, with only 175 sauce recipes, but they are presented in an incredibly condensed format for easy identification. Here's three of the sauces you mention, the COMPLETE recipes from it:

Sauce Perigueux: Demi-glace with essence of truffle, chopped truffle garnish, madeira.

Sauce Madère: Demi-glace with madeira.

Homard à l'Anglaise (Lobster Sauce): Bechamel with anchovy essence, diced lobster garnish, cayenne.

Larousse has Sauce Royale, and refers to Jardinière, which seems to be a particular selection of vegetables, although usually presented as a stew.

EDIT: They may not have fallen out of favour, just too expensive to make with all that truffle and lobster.

[wargarden Profile]

Joanbunting the search results i got for many of sauces were total different then ones you describe.
scullion i usually limit myself when comes to recipes to post 1799 with few exception.
Sakkarin thanks. i seem have all those books or modern versions of them.

[Binky Profile]

Whilst reading about Carême, the chef to various VIPs and the diplomat Talleyrand (we were visiting the chateau where Talleyrand lived and entertained) we discovered that Carême had been set a test by Talleyrand; to create a year's worth of menus, and not to duplicate any dish. He was to use local seasonal produce. Quite a feat, but he managed it.


I have wondered since if he did that by clever use of sauces - chicken and beef presented scores of different ways depending on what sauce was used?

(He was the originator of 'haute cuisine' according to wikipedia, but the chateau mentioned nothing about that. You can see the kitchen and the copperpans, jelly moulds, etc. All very simple by today's standards.....and the deserted kitchen is the coolest room in the house, blessed relief on a hot French day).

[Sakkarin Profile]

set a test by Talleyrand; to create a year's worth of menus, and not to duplicate any dish

Ha! That was the task I set myself in 2002 when I started a prototype blog which I edited every day, to cook something different every single day for a year. I only got up to October, as I met someone in November who occupied most of my waking thoughts for the next two months.

Sorry, back to sauces...

[karadekoolaid Profile]

Sauce Royale
Madeira wine sauce
gardinere sauce
lobster sauce(not a Chinese sauce).
perageaux sauce

OK, Wargarden - I´m interested to know what a Sauce Royale, Gardinere (sic) and lobster sauce are. I´ve nailed the other two and, for me, they´re French classics.
Point me in the direction of a web link.

[Sakkarin Profile]

Ha! Cumberland Sauce is in La Repertoire too! I didn't expect that...

[Joanbunting Profile]

Rather more basic but very useful is Michel Roux's book

https://www.amazon.com/Michel-Roux-Sauc ... 0847832902

[cherrytree Profile]

This isn’t lost or forgotten but I do love bread sauce with a nice roast chicken. The family is less than enthusiastic though with only one of my children eating it. My husband hates it too.

[Suffs Profile]

We also have home made bread sauce with roast chicken
... DD makes extra so she can have it cold in sandwiches ... and she’s as skinny as a rake

[Binky Profile]

I came across Nun's Sauce in Dorothy Hartley's Food in England.

It's supposed to be from a Yorkshire convent around the late 1880s. High-falutin' nuns if they had soy sauce and anchovies.

This is the same recipe, but from Cookipedia

https://www.cookipedia.co.uk/recipes_wiki/Nun%27s_sauce

[Renee Profile]

Cherrytree, I made bread sauce from a really good recipe one Christmas and only my mother and myself enjoyed it. It's just a part of the whole Christmas meal.

[wargarden Profile]

there are several reasons that lost forgotten sauces intrigue me. The first is the sauces i listed in first post
where list on bill of fair from restaurant from July 21 1857 another menu item on that list was:
"young chicken;maryland style".


the second was an article about lost sauce called black walnut bay sauce.
https://gardenandgun.com/recipe/black-walnut-bay-sauce/

[Joanbunting Profile]

I too am a bread sauce hater but I do make it for M and he says it is better thsn his mother's Can't imagine what his mother's , a wonderful cook, was!

[Amyw Profile]

Ah good old Maryland chicken

I only tried bread sauce last year and was very underwhelmed. I didn’t hate it but would never choose to eat it . Out of all the wonderful condiments you can have with a roast , wallpaper paste isn’t even a contender.

I think a lot of sauces are just too rich and heavy for today’s palate/ cooking style . Nowadays people are more likely to have things like pestos , chimichurri, salsas etc .

[Renee Profile]

The Christmas meal has to be a traditional one for me, Amy! When I made the bread sauce, I had to stick cloves in half an onion and simmer gently in milk. I think it also had nutmeg in it and a fair amount of butter.

[karadekoolaid Profile]

I too am a bread sauce hater

Count me in.
Bread sauce is about as exciting as a wet weekend on the Isle of Mull.
Never mind - it takes all sorts!!