Cocoa, chocolate - where´s it from?

[karadekoolaid Profile]

So I´m reading the coriander thread and someone mentions chocolate. I´m currently translating a book on cocoa, so I thought it might be interesting to share some of the information.
Cocoa is ages old - it´s been cultivated for more than 4,000 years. In Mexico, the Mayas used it as a drink, mixed with chiles; and indeed, it remained in liquid form until the mid-19th century.
Cocoa is originally from South America and the Caribbean, right up to Mexico and including Guayaquil, in Ecuador. The best cocoa trees grow close to the coast, in tropical rain forests, where the shade and the rich nutrients in the ground nourish the plants.
Cocoa grows on trees; but not on the branches - the pods grow on the trunk of the tree. The pod is harvested and split open. Inside the pod there are double lines of cocoa beans, covered in a mucilaginous white jelly, rich in Vitamin C. The beans are removed, fermented, and left to dry in huge patios. Then they´re put into sacks and sent off to, well, all sorts of places these days. Up until the end of the 19th century, the world´s biggest exporter of cocoa was... Venezuela. The Spanish discovered that Venezuelan cocoa was far more aromatic, far more delicate and far more delicious than the Mexican variety, so they monopolized the production and commerce. Most cocoa was shipped to Spain and Mexico ( " New Spain") .
Then, in the 1847, a certain Joseph Fry made the first chocolate bar. Cadbury soon followed, and solid, rather than liquid chocolate was born. A true revolution. Cocoa was no longer an aristocratic drink; it became a popular food item.
At the end of the 19th century, Ecuador began exporting cocoa. Much , much cheaper than the Venezuelan variety, and far more accessible, since Venezuela had been ravaged by civil war, independence and many other factors.
In the early 20th century, after cocoa had been exported to, and successfully raised in the Gold Coast and Ghana - Africa took over. The increase in production was incredible and, while African cocoa was not of such good quality, there was far more of it and it was a whole lot cheaper. Venezuela lost its markets.Mix cocoa beans with sugar and milk, and the perfect energy bar was created - perfect for armies, kids and the hoi polloi - because it was cheap and nutritious.
Only in the past 20 years or so have we seen the introduction of gourmet chocolate. 40%, 50%, 60%, 75% pure cocoa , plus a few other delights such as sugar , cocoa butter, nuts and aromatic spices . A mile and a half above Cadbury´s Dairy Milk or a Hershey´s bar.
Interesting, eh?

[jeral Profile]

Interesting indeed

The first chocolate I remember is Fry's, their peppermint cream coated bar. My parents mortgage was paid by instalments collected each week and the "rent man" would bring a bar each for us two kids. Chocolate was rare so a treat to look forward to. It was sometimes a Fry's "Five Boys" I think which had faces stamped into the mould. Little did I know Mr Fry lived a good century before.

Perhaps when the situation improves eventually in Venezuela they can start to succeed in the artisan market again.

[Binky Profile]

Yes, a very interesting thread.

My first memory of chocolate is Fry's Turkish Delight, followed by Rowntrees Walnut Whip. My mother enjoyed a chocolate bar named Old Jamaica (with rum and raisins). I don't know who made that.

Hersheys and the new Cadbury products should not be dignified with the title chocolate. They are truly vile.

[Stokey Sue Profile]

I remember Old Jamaica - I think it might have been Terry's?

No -- apparently Cadbury, but no longer made for the UK market, though it seems you can get them

https://www.doyouremember.co.uk/memory/cadburys-old-jamaica

I remember starting with Cadbury's penny Dairy Milk bars. Even to a 4 year old they were tiny, and wrapped in very thin foil that always got entangled with your teeth. But my pocket money was twice my age in pennies, so only 8d and a more generous 3d bar was something of an investment

I preferred plain chocolate though from the age of about 7, my dad used to get me a Terry's All Gold Easter egg

Interestingly Paul A Young, the chocolatier, said on TV the other day that if you want a good bar of plain chocolate, such as a 72% you are often better advised to buy a supermarket own brand, Fairtrade and single estate or single country, that a big name brand as the big names have to deliver a consistent blend, but a canny supermarket buyer can shop around more freely. I'd long suspected this - all supermarkets including Aldi & Lidl seem to do nice bars, usually certified Fairtrade

[Amyw Profile]

I always think Lidl chocolate is lovely. I always think that when Lidl/Aldi do certain food things well, they do it very well.

I grew up on Cadburys chocolate, though can't stand the stuff now. Thorntons used to be seen as a bit posh, but I think has gone right downhill. We used to have a large shop in town, where you could get the personalised chocolate with writing on etc. Was really popular to start off with , but interest faded and the shop shut.

Willie's chocolate is lovely and he does a hazelnut and raisin type, which is one of my favourites. I think Hotel Chocolat is the best I've tried

[wargarden Profile]

i seen many advertizement pre 1846 for chocolate cake which was the coco that was sold to public block for use in medicine and other things. real chocolate cake came in recipe i posted a week ago.

[Stokey Sue Profile]

A friend from Trinidad got me some unrefined cocoa, which came in rough sticks

It was used to make drinking chocolate, you grated it, melted it in milk, with a cinnamon stick, sweetened it and drank it

Not my thing really, the combination of cocoa butter and milk was a bit rich. Needed a good slug of rum.

[jeral Profile]

i seen many advertizement pre 1846 for chocolate cake which was the coco that was sold to public block for use in medicine and other things. real chocolate cake came in recipe i posted a week ago.

Maybe Mr Fry was the first who marketed tiny blocks to be eaten and be scrumptious "as is"? The first person to be remembered in posterity isn't necessarily the inventor of some things, e.g. famously TVs, and the telephone, so perhaps Mr Fry was the first or an early person to succeed via the brand marketing game.

I always remember chocolate has valuable manganese but has a problem in absorption of it. Something to do with copper I think but can't remember what, sorry.

[Alexandria Profile]

Karakoolaide,

Exemplary mini article .. Highly enjoyable.

1520: The Spaniards discovered Aztec chocolate and Hernan Cortez brought it back to Spain in 1520.

1631: Various books canvassed opinions on the virtues of chocolate and the most renowned, was documented by Doctor Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma from Sevilla, called Curioso Tratado de la Naturaleza y Calidad de Chocolate in 1631.

Venezuelan and Peruvian chocolate are awesome .. As is Tuscan .. Different, however, all wonderful in a different way.

Lovely weekend wishes.

[karadekoolaid Profile]

the combination of cocoa butter and milk was a bit rich. Needed a good slug of rum

Hahahaha, Sue!! Right up my street!!

Many,many years ago, I was in a village called Choroní, right next to the village of Chuao. Chuao produces probably the most aromatic and desirable cocoa in the world. However, it is potent; very potent. I bought some " Fresh Cocoa" from a seller there, tried it, and wondered why on earth anyone would want to eat it. These days it´s available in a more edible form as a " Chuao 67%" chocolate bar.

[karadekoolaid Profile]

Willie's chocolate is lovely

Amy - Willie Harcourt-Cooze bought, replanted and reconditioned an abandoned Cocoa Plantation in Chuao, Venezuela, providing work for many local people. His chocolates became famous - until some envious workers, allies of the filthy Communist Hugo Chávez, complained of "unfair work conditions". The dictator publicly denounced the " imperialist intervention", expropriated the plantation, and gifted it to the "workers". Today it lies in ruins.

Wargarden: "chocolate" as we know it today, did not exist before 1847. so a "chocolate" cake from 1846 had to have been made with cocoa powder, ie. powdered cocoa beans. This was the period when "cocoa" ceased to be an aristocratic drink and began to develop as a solid food item. I´d be interested to see the recipe.

Member 461: the Spanish did not "discover" chocolate; it had been used in Mexico for at least 4,000 years. "Xocolatl" is the Nahuatl( Aztec) word used to describe a drink made with cocoa beans and water, literally "bitter water". Although I can´t verify it, the xocolatl probably contained chiles as well. The Spanish found the cacao (cocoa) bean and realised it was wonderful; that´s how it got to Spain and soon became all the rage in the 16th century. But I insist - it was a drink, not a solid.
The word "chocolate" is a transliteration of the original Nahuatl word. I can just imagine Joseph Fry trying to get his tongue around "xocolatl" Dr Colmenero´s use of the word "Chocolatae" is interesting, however.

Jeral: I have no idea what Mr Fry´s "chocolate Bars" were like, although I do know that the (bitter) cocoa bean was mixed with sugar; and possibly milk.

[Pampy Profile]

My sister brought me some unrefined chocolate from the Dominican Republic, to be used like Sue's from Trinidad. It didn't impress me either.
I remember the rum and raisin chocolate bar - seem to recall it was in an orange wrapper. I remember Fry's bars too - as well as the cream one, they made one with each chunk a different fruit flavour. One of my favourites at the moment is Green and Black's organic ginger chocolate.

[Alexandria Profile]

Karakoolaide,

I used the wrong verb.

Yes, I know Hernan Cortez did not discover chocolate ..

Chocolate dates back also to the Mayans ( 13.000 years ago ) if I am not mistaken too ?? yes, and of course the Aztecs.

I could be wrong however, I think the Mayans also had " liquid chocolate "..

I meant to say, that in 1520, Hernan Cortez came across the product (cacoa beans ) and brought them back to Spain.

Apologies .. Wrong Verb ..

Yes, it was experimented with in Spain and the neighboring countries -- it was then, that the chocolate was created into "solids" ..

Have a great weekend ..

[karadekoolaid Profile]

Yep.
The book I´m currently translating has a chapter:
" From an Aristocratic Drink to a Popular Food item"

[Alexandria Profile]

Karakoolaide,

Jordi Roca & Ignacio Medina wrote an amazing book on Cacoa called: Casa Cacao

Fascinating subject.

If I recall it also had a Mayan background prior to the Aztecs.

[Gillthepainter Profile Website]

Old Jamaica was a delight. I felt very grown up eating the rum soaked bar, and wondered if I was drunk yet.

Personally, I don't like the use of chocolate in cooking. In Scotland when I was 20 something, a friend added an imperceptible square of cadbury's to a red wine sauce with steak.
And it's put me off as an unnecessary addition.

I tried it again with a celebration meal at this fantastic restaurant: https://wesleyhouse.co.uk/restaurant/sa ... nner-menu/
Don't get me wrong, it was OK. But not for me.
Having said that, I'd love to try a mole sauce.

One day I'll get over to the Southern Americas, and experience these dishes of a lifetime.

Nice write up, Karadekoolaide. What a Nexpert in chocolate you have become.

[Binky Profile]

For the past two Christmases, we've treated ourselves (well, me really) to the Hotel Chocolat Connoisseurs Table. A vast box of quality chocolate that lasts throughout the festive season, and never fails to impress visitors (not that they get grudgingly offered more than one )

[Alexandria Profile]

Karakoolaide,

The Mayans used cacao beans for trading and as a currency.

www.sciencemag.org/news/maya

I have read this in Jordi Roca´s book as he had travelled through Mexico and all South & Central America
to visit cacao producers and cultivators of the cacao trees.

[jeral Profile]

Coo, a vast box of the best chocolates - kid in a sweet shop with an open cheque. I eat only a square of a bar, but boxes are my downfall having to try each, thus being totally manipulated as the makers intended

Willie Harcourt-Cooze bought, replanted and reconditioned an abandoned Cocoa Plantation in Chuao, Venezuela, providing work for many local people. His chocolates became famous - until some envious workers, allies of the filthy Communist Hugo Chávez, complained of "unfair work conditions". The dictator publicly denounced the " imperialist intervention", expropriated the plantation, and gifted it to the "workers". Today it lies in ruins.

Heartbreaking. I'm not sure which is worse, gifting it to the "workers" (presumably himself) or like our successive governments selling off the silver as I hear today that British Steel is now owned by the Turkish Military Pension Fund. Whacky world.

[Binky Profile]

This is the box. I don't think it's called Connoisseurs anymore


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